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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.